“Le Marche” , one name, many identities.

Often when we go less-known destinations, or not as famous, we ask ourselves if they will meet our expectations. Infact, Imprimis doesn't have only the “duty” of verifying how beautiful or adequate is the destination we are going to suggest, but also to value the overall offer (es: accommodation, transport, restaurants). The arrival in the region was a pleasant surprise under every aspect. This is a lovely area facing the Adriatic sea, with the Appennini rising at its back. The combo between sea and mountain meant that the region was amongst the first to expose this combination, largely expressed in the culinary tradition, rich of “mare e monti” recepies (mountain and sea): Meat, fish, truffle, mushrooms and cheese often mix in the dishes, and with harmony.

“Le Marche” have in fact 173 kilometers of coast, behind which vast hills immediatly start , characterizing the 70% of the territory, whilst the remaining 30% is mostly mountains. But Le Marche aren’t just cuisine and scenarios,  as there is also history, a lot of history, that has its origins all the way back to the Iron Age, when these lands were taken by the “Piceni”, who’s name still lives in many areas here.

It is easy to detect the Roman presence, which influenced and molded this territory during long centuries through the foundation of many cities that flourished in the following hundreds of years.

Weaker the secular power of the Church, which dominated these lands from the sixteenth century. The last two centuries were determined first by Napoleon’s troops, and then by Italian unification.

We can see how “Le Marche” can satisfy  many interests: history, art and culture, sea and mountains, an excellent culinary tradition and lots of quality wine. For who doesn’t know the wine from these hills is a naturally gifted wine, due to the particular climate found her, guaranteeing superior taste: thanks to the humidity from the mountains and the mixing effect giving by the sea and its salty winds, the maturation of the grapes is given an “extra” something.

A trip here will be hardly about shopping, nightlife and city-life! But rather a relaxing trip rich in culture and incredible scenarios. Coming from north we passed from Pesaro, medium sized town, influenced in customs by the nearby region called “Romagna”. Pesaro isn’t be the pearl of Romagna,but it is a good base from where visiting a medieval masterpiece, now patrimony of UNESCO: Urbino.

We cannot avoid to mention a religious destination, even a pilgrimage recipient: Loreto. In the gorgeous Basilica is conserved the “Casa di Gesu’” (house of Jesus) inside of which the devotees can admire the famous “Madonna Nera con Bambino”.

The centre-southern region bears the sign of a long feudalism period, leaving behind many suggestive fortresses. Going to restaurants it is certainly another satisfying activity furthermore, you do not have to go through the rural hills to find genuine yet sophisticated: cities such as Ancona, Fano and Ascoli Piceno all have restaurants ran by great local chefs.

In Ancona, some small “trattoria” (family ran restaurants) will likely surprise you with unmatchable fish dishes whilst in Fano you have lots of mentioned “sea and mountain” specialties.

Yet, my heart remains tied with Ascoli Piceno, where, with a small dose of luck, you will be able to eat the handmade, super fresh “Tagliolini d’uovo with black truffle”, followed by a fillet personally grilled by the chef in a eighteen century fireplace, dressed by fresh Porcini mushroom’s heads, directly from the forests of the nearby Appennini.“Le Marche”, an experience worth doing                                                          

Ancona

                                         

Cathedral of Ancona. Detail

Piazza Plebiscito.Ancona

Ancient Palace. Ancona

Port of Ancona. Detail

Central Square.Ascoli Piceno

Bell Tower.Ascoli Piceno

Fortezza Pia. Ascoli Piceno

Rocca Roveresca.Senigallia

Foro Annonario.Senigallia

Palazzo Ducale.Urbino

Urbino.Detail

Urbino.Detail

Villino Ruggeri.Pesaro

The Medusa.Pesaro

Cathedral.Pesaro

Roman Arch.Fano

Cathedral.Loreto.Back Side

Cathedral Loreto.Front Side

Landscape.Loreto

Augusta Praetoria

Augusta Praetoria

The arrival of spring brought the usual raise in temperature, Milan started to heat up so i decide to go out of town for the first long weekend, to visit one of our “hidden pearl”: Val D’Aosta.

This is the smallest of our region, hidden in the famous Alps. The “capital”, Aosta, delicately lies in a lovely valley sorrounded by tall mountains. The entrance in town has a sort of triumphal feeling, you are in fact greeted by a ancient Roman monument, the Augustus Arch, the beginning of one of the main roads of the town.

I decided to stay in a gorgeous hotel full of charme just outside ot town, which guaranteed a great views over the sorrounding Alps, still with plenty of snow over their peaks.

The city itself offered a pleasant panorama where some important Roman monuments can be seen, amongst which an important theatre. Let’s keep in mind that Aosta is very rich of Roman ruins (hence the original name “Augusta Pretoria”) and for hundreds of years served as a fundamental border post defending the Alps passage.

After a long walk discovering the town i decide to enter in a characteristic restaurant in order to taste some local treats..simply unforgettable the traditional “Polenta Valdostana”, made with 5 “poor” cereals and the carbonnade with deer and potatoes. For dessert i have to choose between the Saint Orso’s cream (made with dry fruit) and the famous tiramisu’ made with black bread.

All of these delicacies have been accompanied by a bottle of “Fumin” an excellent local wine. The “Val d’Aosta” can count on a millenary tradition when it comes to wineries, unknown to most, but amongst the highest in quality. The reasons are simple: the wineries are small..and small is the production. But this canteens are open and visitable and have to be seen!

Curiously these wineries are often near by other famous attractactions in the region: the castels. In the Valley there is highest concentration of the best preserved castles in Italy. The majority are visitable also inside, where amazing interiors are beautifully preserved, with frescoes and medieval furnitures. Another curiosity is that most of the best castles are in a relatively small area, are easily reachable and even visible from each other!

Then i decide to drive thru the small medieval towns in the vicinities of Aosta, discovering these small architectonic gems which never disappoints the expectation of visitors.

Owned by many important families, the castles show diverse architecture and sizes, due to the different times they were built, as much as the refurbishing in the years.

In the evening i return to town and i continue my discovery of the marvellous local tastes.. This time I opt for a “tagliere” of cheese and salame including the famous “Lardo di Arnad” typical of the area, local “Fontina”,  and a “Tomino” , also used in the culinary of Piedmont.

Afterward, a fuming duck’s leg in a sesame’s crust in a bed of mushroom’s cream, exceptional!!

The holiday continues with this relaxing rhythmes, between castles and canteens, immersed in a breath taking nature. I am sure i will be back.. next time in winter, in order to take advantage of the excellent skiing structures and indulge in a relaxing stay in a lovely chalet with a firing place and near by hot springs.

Arch Of Augusto.Aosta

                                       

Aggiungi didascalia

Roman Theater.Aosta

Roman Theater.Aosta.Detail

Street.Aosta

Cathedral.Aosta.Detail

Castle of Fenis

Landscape.Aosta

Landscape.Aosta

Castle of Sarre

Castle of Sarre

Castle of Saint-Pierre

Landscape.Aosta

Castle of Saint-Pierre

Castle's vineyards.Saint-Pierre

Etruria Felix

The so- called “Maremma” is an area in lower Tuscany particularly dear to me: I have been coming here since I was 2, almost each year. This part of the peninsula has had historical a significance since 1000 BC, and the peak of the first Italic civilization, that of the Etruscans. These people have contributed highly to the rise of the Roman power, which called this area “Etruria”, but already aware of the blessing this region received, they often called it “Etruria Felix”. Happy Etruria.

The last time I was in this blessed region was in September 2010, and has been unforgettable as always. “Saturnia”, home of the famous hot springs, is reachable in about 4 hours from Rome, where we picked a rented car from Fiumicino airport. The drive itself it’s pleasant.. Taking you to the farmlands of north Lazio and lower Tuscany, in regional roads which passes through the typical scenario of cypress hills.

We reached in the evening, in time to collect the keys from our trusted landlord, giving us a lovely 1 bedroom apartment..time for a shower and then out hitting the restaurant! We ate, wonderfully, at “Bacco e Cecere” restaurant in the middle of town, a long-based classic in Saturnia. The meals were spectacular as always, dishing out traditional plates such as the “Pappardelle al Ragu’ di Cinghiale” (Boar’s sauce pappardelle), the wild rabbit, the famous Tuscanian crostini (toasted bread with local sauces) and one the world-famous local wines..we opted for a typical Morellino di Scansano, with the year suggested by the friendly sommelier.

Our days in “Maremma” srarted with the “Saturnia Thermal Baths”, which can be reached even on foot using a 2000 ys old Roman street, starting from town passing by a lovely Roman arch.. the structure is not cheap but has it all: pools, jets, Jacuzzis…kids area, a nice bar-restaurant specialized in healthy food, and relaxing areas in the garden.

We visited the public ones as well, in a characteristic area with an old house and natural terraces where to laze around… water is not as hot as it is further away from the source, and now many small bars have opened next to it.

Other activities we could do around were the visits to the Etruscan sights, such as the tombs and the caves, tight passages built through rocks which were used as communication arteries between the towns, as far back as 2700 ys ago….ONLY IN ITALY!!

We have spent an amazing week in lower Tuscany, seen very few foreign tourists, confirming how this area has yet to be discovered by tour operators..let’ s hope they never will! We shall keep coming to Saturnia and the Maremma to indulge in its tastes, the colors of Tuscany, the ancient history, the activities (horse riding is also fabulous to do here) and of course the curative water of the hot springs.

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