The so- called “Maremma” is an area in lower Tuscany particularly dear to me: I have been coming here since I was 2, almost each year. This part of the peninsula has had historical a significance since 1000 BC, and the peak of the first Italic civilization, that of the Etruscans. These people have contributed highly to the rise of the Roman power, which called this area “Etruria”, but already aware of the blessing this region received, they often called it “Etruria Felix”. Happy Etruria.
The last time I was in this blessed region was in September 2010, and has been unforgettable as always. “Saturnia”, home of the famous hot springs, is reachable in about 4 hours from Rome, where we picked a rented car from Fiumicino airport. The drive itself it’s pleasant.. Taking you to the farmlands of north Lazio and lower Tuscany, in regional roads which passes through the typical scenario of cypress hills.
We reached in the evening, in time to collect the keys from our trusted landlord, giving us a lovely 1 bedroom apartment..time for a shower and then out hitting the restaurant! We ate, wonderfully, at “Bacco e Cecere” restaurant in the middle of town, a long-based classic in Saturnia. The meals were spectacular as always, dishing out traditional plates such as the “Pappardelle al Ragu’ di Cinghiale” (Boar’s sauce pappardelle), the wild rabbit, the famous Tuscanian crostini (toasted bread with local sauces) and one the world-famous local wines..we opted for a typical Morellino di Scansano, with the year suggested by the friendly sommelier.
Our days in “Maremma” srarted with the “Saturnia Thermal Baths”, which can be reached even on foot using a 2000 ys old Roman street, starting from town passing by a lovely Roman arch.. the structure is not cheap but has it all: pools, jets, Jacuzzis…kids area, a nice bar-restaurant specialized in healthy food, and relaxing areas in the garden.
We visited the public ones as well, in a characteristic area with an old house and natural terraces where to laze around… water is not as hot as it is further away from the source, and now many small bars have opened next to it.
Other activities we could do around were the visits to the Etruscan sights, such as the tombs and the caves, tight passages built through rocks which were used as communication arteries between the towns, as far back as 2700 ys ago….ONLY IN ITALY!!
We have spent an amazing week in lower Tuscany, seen very few foreign tourists, confirming how this area has yet to be discovered by tour operators..let’ s hope they never will! We shall keep coming to Saturnia and the Maremma to indulge in its tastes, the colors of Tuscany, the ancient history, the activities (horse riding is also fabulous to do here) and of course the curative water of the hot springs.
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more to come!
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